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What is Jamdani Saree?
The word Jamdani is deriven from Persian origin. This is a combination of the words ‘Jam’ and ‘Dani’ which mean flower and vase respectively.
The art of weaving is exactly that—an art. It requires ability, accuracy and cadence, which when rehashed again and again, produces a fragile weave. Jamdani weaves, be that as it may, require more than this.
Since the characterizing part of this material are its rich themes, which are altogether unpredictably included by hand, Jamdani is touted as the most developed hand weaving method on the planet. Every theme must be decorated into the texture by adding denser strings to fine twist strings, and this procedure is so time escalated that on a standard day, a craftsman can weave just between a quarter and one inch of texture.
That amazingly means a year in case we're taking a gander at a hand woven Jamdani sari. No big surprise the customary craft of weaving Jamdani was pronounced an UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013. Vogue plunks down with the ace of weaves, Gaurang Shah, who causes us comprehend the subtleties of weaving this famous texture.
Origin and History of Jamdani Saree
Jamdani was mentioned in the book `Arthashashtra’ (book of economics) by an ancient economist – Kautily, dating back to 300 AD.
More over There are historical references from the early and late 19th century by James Taylor and T.N Mukharji both respectively, they referred it as figured or flowered Jamdani and Jamdani muslin.
Globally, it was known to be one of the finest muslins.
After that the golden age of the Dhaka muslin started in the 17th century with the commencement of Mughal rule.
Trading of Jamdani in Europe, Iran, Armenia also started as well.
The Mughals and Pathans thr suit, which was considered a favorite of the royalty.
But in the mid 19th century , sadly it was seen that Jamdani was declined mainly due to the import of cheaper.
The weavers were forced that they have to sell their work at lower prices.
Then the East India Company started to buy the textiles directly from the weavers to stop this level of exploitation.
Sources of Inspiration
Though the Mughal patronage and the consequent declined, this exotic weave had still demand because it had an elegance and artistic finish.
Jamdani fabrics are cherished to be gifted to closed ones.
It was fine enough that it can pass through a ring, a Jamdani’s effect is one of a shimmering surface strewn with the precious jewels also.
The Making Process of Jamdani Saree
Like other traditional arts, Jamdani is also done by men.
Networks of craftsmans in Uttar Pradesh and West Bengal in India and at Rupgang, Sonargaon, Shiddhirganj ( Bangladesh), exceed expectations right now.
Rather than utilizing karpash cotton, today weavers use Cotton and Silk mixes.
Being a flexible texture, it tends to be either woven in full Silk or additionally with a mix of genuine gold/silver/valuable metal yarn.
Jamdani is eco-accommodating as it is spun by hand and foot apparatuses.
Some originator pieces can take upto 13 months to finish, with two full-time weavers.
Banaras and Tanda in Uttar Pradesh and West Bengal separately, are a few spots for the weaving of these sarees.